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Contact UsThe Wall Connector charges as fast as the circuit behind it lets it. We put it on the right breaker, set up Wi-Fi and the Tesla app, pull the permit, and quote one flat-rate price.
Charging at home is the whole point of owning a Tesla. The Mobile Connector that comes with the car works on a regular outlet, but it is slow, a few miles of range for every hour it sits there. The Wall Connector on a dedicated 240-volt circuit adds up to about 44 miles of range for every hour it charges on a 60-amp breaker, depending on the model. Plug in at night, leave full in the morning, and skip the Supercharger except on road trips.
Almost all of a Tesla's charging happens in the driveway or the garage. That makes the Wall Connector, and the wiring behind it, the single most-used piece of equipment you will own for the car. It deserves a proper circuit, not a shortcut.
Gen 3 Wall Connector. The standard Tesla-plug unit. Up to 48 amps of charging on a 60-amp circuit, a 24-foot cable on the current model, Wi-Fi, app control, and power sharing across up to six units on one circuit. If every car in the household is a Tesla, this is the one.
Universal Wall Connector. Same speed and the same power-sharing ability, with a built-in J1772 adapter that swings out so it also charges non-Tesla EVs without hunting for an adapter. The pick for a two-car household where the second car is a Ford, Hyundai, Rivian or anything else, and for a home you may sell, because the next owner can use it no matter what they drive.
We install both. If you already bought one, we install what you have. If you have not, tell us what is parked in the garage now and what might be parked there in three years, and we will tell you which one to order.
The Wall Connector's charge rate follows the breaker. Tesla's guidance: a 60-amp breaker for the full 48-amp rate, a 50-amp breaker for 40 amps, a 40-amp breaker for 32 amps, and so on down. The connector is set to the matching amperage during commissioning so it never asks the circuit for more than the breaker can deliver. A unit set to 48 amps on a 40-amp breaker is the single most common mistake we find on installs other people did, and it either trips constantly or runs the wire hot.
The wire has to match too. A 60-amp circuit needs 6-gauge copper (or the correct larger aluminum with the right terminations), a properly rated breaker, and a run that is protected from damage the whole way. On the evaluation we measure the actual distance from the panel to the mounting spot, because a long run may need heavier wire to keep the voltage up.
A 60-amp circuit is a big load. On a 200-amp panel with room it is usually fine. On a 100- or 150-amp panel in an older home in Canton, Cartersville or Marietta, it may not be, especially with an electric range, dryer, water heater and heat pump already on it. We run the load calculation the code calls for, not a guess. If the math does not work you get three options in writing: a smaller circuit with the connector dialed down to match, the connector's own power-sharing or a load-management device that throttles charging when the house is busy, or a panel upgrade. The upgrade path is described on our residential electrical panel upgrades page.
A second Tesla does not always need a second 60-amp circuit. Up to six Wall Connectors can share one circuit and split the available power between them, so both cars, or all of them, are full by morning without adding load the panel cannot carry. The connectors talk to each other over their own network and hand power back and forth as each car finishes. If you are planning a second EV, tell us now and we wire for it once, with the second mounting point and the shared circuit ready.
For a home where the panel is right at its limit, power sharing between the connector and the house itself is also possible with the right equipment, so the car charges hard when the house is quiet and backs off when the dryer and the oven come on.
Both connectors are rated for outdoor use, but rated is not the same as installed right. We use weatherproof conduit, the correct box, a drip loop, and a mounting height that keeps the unit out of splash and away from the mower. On an outdoor unit we turn on the Wall Connector's access control during commissioning, so a car that is not yours cannot pull power off your meter at the curb. You choose whether it charges any Tesla, only your Teslas, or only cars you have approved.
If you have or want a Tesla Powerwall, the Wall Connector and the Powerwall are set up together in the Tesla app. During an outage the system can hold the car's charging back so it does not drain the battery you are counting on for the fridge and the well pump, and on a normal day it can charge the car from excess solar first. If you have a solar array or plan one, the same setup lets the car soak up midday production. Our home battery backup and home solar pages cover both.
We get called to fix Wall Connectors that were put in by whoever quoted the lowest number that week. The usual problems: a connector set to 48 amps on a 40-amp breaker, which trips or overheats. Undersized wire on a long run. Aluminum wire landed on terminals that were not rated for it. A unit mounted outdoors in a box that was not rated for it. A connector never put on Wi-Fi, so it never updated. No permit, which surfaces when the house sells. A Wall Connector is a simple device. The circuit behind it is where the job is won or lost, and that circuit is electrical work.
Call (678) 880-4570 or book a free on-site evaluation. Flat-rate written quote before any work starts.